*Spool3D CR6-SE All Metal Titanium HeatBreak

Works great on my cr6-se hotend for the best results use boron nitride thermal paste but other than that I have been using this heat break for months now with great results way better than the Teflon lined stock one

It started out great, but then the clogging started happening. I went back to stock for now, I'll give it a try again when I've got time to mess around.

This is a very nicely machined heatbreak. Fits my CR6-SE perfectly and is a nice upgrade! Don't forget to apply the thermal grease when installing. Thanks Spool3D for making this upgrade available!

I bought two of these for my CR6, one for the hot end I have installed on my machine and a second for my spare hotend that I play with and do test fits with. First thing I noticed when installing was that the titanium heatbreak is a rattle fit in the stock heatsink. I measured stock heatbreak to about 5.95mm OD, while Spool3d's titanium measured 5.88mm OD. While I admit I do NOT know enough about material properties to assure that isn't to account for thermal expansion difference between titanium and aluminum, I am assuming it's an oversight and probably why they note that you must use thermal compound on the heatsink side, probably to fill that gap. Happy for someone with more knowledgeable of material properties to correct me and I'll admit I was wrong and learned something. Speaking of thermal compound, if your custom designed product requires thermal compound, surely you could sell if with a small package of it instead of expecting the consumer to notice the description and buy it separately. The only other slightly bothersome thing to me is that the design is a mechanical copy of the stock heatbreak with a narrow throat, I think they should have make some improvements, like making an annualar surface they bottoms out on the heat block to the proper distance instead of emulating the stock heatbreak that just threads as far as you want. It would be very easy for a consumer to thread the heatbreak too far into the heat block and leave too few threads available for the nozzle, or not far enough and leave a gap between the nozzle and heatbreak when nozzle bottoms out. I think it would be a basic design improvement that is not remotely novel or hard to come up with. That said, I have been printing with both as I swap hot ends back and forth and find the design to be an improvement over the bowden tube contact design that comes stock with the CR6. I no longer have capricorn tubing burning up after a few weeks with Luke's hot fix, and no more bulbous melted ends when retracting filament for a changeover. It would be nice to establish some US vendor partnership, the shipping was a hard pill to swallow, so I ended up buying a bunch of spare parts, which is fine. All in all, I am waiting for Micro Swiss to release their all metal hotend and these will be resold for cheap on Facebook.

I think it is crapped and clogged. The diameter of the heatsink side fits very sloppy into the aluminum stock heatsink. Even though I used thermal paste, it is does not make enough contact to cool off the material and heat creep ensues. Frankly I would like a refund or them to correct this. I have confirmed with others that bought too the same review.

It got plugged on the first use. Plugged all the way into the pfennig tubing. Switched back to the CR6 SE original heartbreak.

Been waiting for an all-metal upgrade for the CR-6 line of Creality printers. This is EXACTLY what I envisioned the upgrade being with the modular hotend. Installation was quick and easy, reduced my retractions and am printing PETG and nylon without worrying about breaking down my PTFE tubing anymore.

The best upgrade for my CR6-SE so far! Amazing quality, fits perfectly, super accurate tolerances. Tested with nylon on 260C and it works as charm without damaging PTFE! I wish my firmware have no temp limit because this puppy can go to 300C with no issues for sure. Thank you Spool3D!!!