There's no shortage of TMC2208's to choose from. The fact is these are official Watterott 2208's. Drop in replacements for A4988's (default to legacy mode 1/16 steps). Watterott's web site has all the information for usage, cooling and setup (pot adjustment for VREF) so it makes this product stand out above the rest of the pack in my opinion because you know exactly what you are buying.

The authentic watterott drivers are worth the extra cost. Pop them in and adjust the voltage and your machine will run 66% quieter.

Installed these drivers in a Geeetech A10 3d printer and WOW what a noticeable difference in XYZ motor noise. Almost cannot hear them operate.

Replaced the stock XYZ drivers in my Tevo tornado with this and it works perfectly. They stopped the winding motor noise the printer made.

They are VERY nicely built and as has been already mentioned have the pin headers included, though they are easily soldered in a few minutes. Once adjusted they've been working quietly away with zero issues. Very much worth the money!

Will buy more, easy to setup in marlin firmware.

It was nice to get a brand name Watterott board with heat sink and pin headers in Canada. The package is very competitively priced and the service exceptional. Please note that the the pin headers are NOT shown in the pictures but ARE included as per the description. You will need to solder the pin headers in which is not is not difficult. I strongly recommend you get a cheap $3.00 solder-less breadboard to hold everything together as you solder. If you do not know how to solder, there are plenty of youtube tutorials. Although these work great in standalone mode, I heartily recommend you set them up in UART mode. This will allow you to use Marlin to fine tune them and realize their full potential for your application. To do this, do not solder any pins to the CLK, MS1, and MS2 pads. To set up the communication pin, solder pins facing up the on the PDN pad and unlabeled one next to it. You will then be able to put a 2 wire jumper there and wire it to the ramps board. Finally you need to bridge (short) the 2 pads under the board, next to the PDN pin. This may seem complicated so to get a better sense check out Alex Kenis' review: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GVs2d-TOims&t=566s You can skip to the 5:41 mark to see the assembly.