Quality looked excellent. Prints exactly like it should.

So far so good. Because this nozzle is plated over brass, I haven't found I have to make any changes in temperature. I've printed ABS, PLA, woodfill, and glow in the dark all with no issues so far.

I bought this nozzle for 1 reason: - I wanted to reduce internal friction. E3d already has a nickel platted nozzle but its made of copper and copper is not as hard as brass. Nickle coated hard steel nozzles were an option but steel thermal conduction is pretty poor compared to brass. This Micro-swiss nozzle is made of brass and coated with nickel to reduce friction and increase wear resistance. Pros: - Doing my own hand feel of back pressure when manually pushing the filament in the hot end I found that I used significantly less force to push it through compared to the regular brass nozzle. - The design of the nozzle creates less flat surfaces for the hot filaments to stick on, which make it cleaner or at least easier to clean than the E3d nozzles. - The boar of the nozzle is a bit bigger than the E3d nozzle which creates a larger pool of molten filament to draw from while printing. This means more filament volume available at the melting zone and so, faster extrusion. - I looked at the nozzle through a magnifier and both the machining job and the coating is perfectly done. - The mass of this nozzle is more than the E3d nozzle which in my observation has caused less heat creep traveling upwards towards the hotend throat. I noticed that my cooling tower was significantly cooler @ 38 c compared when I used the regular E3d which was 42c. This means less chances for filament buckling while doing complex prints that requires too many retractions. Hence, less clogging. - All metal hotend don’t like gooey PLA and this results in all sorts of uneven extrusion and artifacts. My PLA prints has been transformed since i used it this nozzle and I think this is due to the low friction it has. - I ran a 3 days long print and had no clogging or any issues at all! Cons: - The only thing I can think of is that you need to do a new PID test and new calibration for your filaments printing settings.